Above
Ice Platform Set for Predators
Article from Nov-Dec
2004 Buckeye Trapper
by Mike
Marchewka
First, let me state that I'm envious of states that allow snares
to be used on land. Here in Illinois, fur trappers are handcuffed
by foolish logic that prevents the use of snares on land because
quote, "they'll catch too many non-target animals like hunting
dogs and deer". Yet, we can use snares on land after we apply
for permit use in A.D.C. situations?!!
Try as we trappers may to show our D.N.R. the modern researched
data and methods of snare positioning, relaxing locks, and breakaway
locks, they fail to see the light. I suppose it will take an unfortunate
incident like what happened in the Eastern state of Massachusetts,
where a coyote bit up a young boy who was playing in his backyard,
before the public outcry forces a change.
Because we can't snare on land, I'm always searching for new ways
to harvest fur when the ground turns to iron and the blowing snow
gets too deep to keep traps working. Trappers have recognized
that when the creeks, rivers and ponds freeze up they become runways
for hunting predators. Tracks of mink, raccoon, opossum, the wild
canines and even deer tracks are visible when the snow falls on
the hardened water.
It was always frustrating to me and (sometimes still is) to walk
by those tracks. In the past, I tried setting traps on the ice
and making crude flat sets or dirthole sets utilizing the creek
bank for my hole and backing. My luck depended on how cold the
weather stayed and which direction the wind blew the snow. Often
times the trap would freeze down due to the temperature rising
during the day and the colder temps at night, or the wind would
gust, drifting snow over my traps; sometimes both occurred. Throw
in difficulties with anchoring the trap and the words futile and
frustration become evident. Let me make it clear these same difficulties
often occur when attempting to trap on frozen ground. Again, that's
where a snare shines.
Then something happened to shed some light on setting traps on
frozen land and ice. A couple of years ago I talked with Rockford,
Illinois trapper, Bruce Quam, about an above ground set he utilized
on fox and coyote in frozen, snow covered ground. Bruce used a
unique welded rod platform for a 6" coilspring trap. (Editor's
Note: Traps set on land in Ohio may not have a jaw spread greater
than 5-5/8".) The trap was rigged to ten feet of machine
chain and a grapple hook. The unique platform allowed the trap
to be positioned off the ground. This prevented the trap from
freezing down. The platform also allowed the trap to remain stable
in snowdrifts. When the animal became caught it pulled the trap
off the platform.
Bruce's main set was a snow hole set in deep fencerow snowdrifts.
He would drive the pickup close to a fence line and set up traps
utilizing a large shoveled out hole in the snow bank. The drag
was thrown out into the drift and the trap and platform positioned
in front of the baited hole. Bruce had a lot of success with these
sets but has recently passed away. There was a lot of knowledge
and inforamtion that went with Bruce, but I feel lucky to have
talked with him about this set and others. He did mention trying
other methods of elevating the trap off the ground before going
totally with the welded rod platform. Since I had no idea where
to acquire or make the welded rod platform, I tried his other
earlier methods.
One tactic was to utilize a simple piece of plywood cut a bit
bigger than the trap to be used. Another was a piece of drywall
or sheet rock that's commonly used in house construction. Both
materials need to have nails or screws anchored around the edge
of the trap to help hold it in place. After using both of these
for sometime, and a few others like cardboard and waxed paper,
I prefer the sheet rock; because it's durable, lightweight and
it's white, so it blends in a bit better. Also, the hardness of
wood makes anchoring the nails or screws more difficult. The sheet
rock is a bit softer in texture too.
So how does this winter set work? It's fairly simple actually.
What I do is to have my platforms and traps all pre-set before
I leave to set out traps. That means each platform has a set trap
already anchored in place. How does one anchor the trap to the
platform? Carefully! Because each trap needs to be set before
it can be mounted on the platform, some care is needed.
I like using short, thin headless nails to anchor the trap to
the platform, finishing nails about four to five inches long are
ideal. However, any type of nail or screw will work. The key is
to be sure that the trap has sufficient pan tension. I like about
two pounds. Yes, I know that's a bit much for any wandering mink,
but I have caught my share even with two pounds; usually by the
back feet. Another important point before anchoring the trap in
place is to draw an outline of the trap on the platform. This
helps to pre-set some of the nails/screws into place. I usually
place a nail or screw on the inside of the trap's jaw and another
directly on the outside. The nail/screw needs to contact the jaw
so the trap does not tip or wobble. Around eight to ten nails
to a platform usually is all that is needed to fully stabilize
a trap.
I like sliding a block of wood or apiece of foam under each set
trap, before loading up the platforms in the back of the truck.
This prevents accidental firing that may occur once in the field.
As far as which particular trap make or size; there are a couple
considerations. First, use what you have. It makes no sense to
buy a special trap to attempt to utilize this set. There are so
many factors that Ma' Nature can throw at a trapper to foul up
our efforts in the cold, snowy, weather that additional expenses
for special traps just doesn't add up. Just be sure the trap is
well made with a good base and frame, has strong springs and is
clean. A good wax or petroleum based dip doesn't hurt. I've used
this set with jump traps, longsprings and obviously coilsprings.
They all work! I will say that a large coilspring trap without
a bottom j-hook or ones without baseplate with d-rings are easier
to stabilize on platforms.
In my area the coyote is the most common predator that frequents
the ice, so I use a lot of the old #2 and #3 Montgomery traps
on my platforms; because that's what I have. They are strong and
they are flat setting traps. Through trial and error you will
find a system that works best with the equipment you have.
After arriving at my trap location, I grab a bucket and a platform,
with the attached chain and grapple hook, out of the back of the
truck. In the bucket, I also place a roll of unscented toilet
paper and a hammer. My lure, urine or bait is placed in my coat
pocket and a lightweight broom is also carried to the set. I like
setting up locations that offer a backing. This limits the area
the predator has to step around when it checks out my attractor.
I don't like to give free sniffs!
The set is basically a flat set or post set, however I have dug
out holes in creek banks and made dirthole sets with success.
Features like, clumps of frozen sod, tangles of frozen down branches
or, my best producer, little pockets of cattails can all be set
up. Simply toss the grapple hook and excess chain behind the backing
and sweep off a suitable area for your platform. Next, stabilize
the platform on the ice by making sure it doesn’t tip or
rock. Occasionally there will be a need to chip away small uneven
ice, thus the hammer.
I'm not going to get into how far back from the attractor the
trap should be placed; each trapper has their own theories and
preference. Next, remove the under pan block and place a few sheets
of toilet paper over the pan to prevent the snow from getting
under the pan. This will prevent the pan from being able to be
pushed down and the trap from firing. I like to use a few sheets
of toilet paper folded up under the pan to further prevent any
obstructions from occurring.
Brush a light layer of snow over the paper, making sure to blend
the platform and excess chain. Apply the chosen attractor on a
backing near the platform, and then brush out any excess snow
towards the platform. Obviously, any signs of your tracks should
be erased all the way to the shoreline.
Since the trap is attached to a long chain and hook, use discretion
where the set is being made. In my area, setting traps near snowmobile
tails is taboo because of the high visibility of a caught animal
on the snow. I use a little trick I learned from some veteran
drag trappers; I pre-tangle the drag at the set around an unmovable
object whenever possible. Throwing the hook around the base of
a small tree or bush will make it easier to locate the caught
animal when you return. Keep in mind that if it snows after a
catch is made tracking the catch will be difficult.
My best luck with these sets is the intense cold periods where
there is not much fluctuation in temperature. The snow is light
and powdery and there are very little problems with freeze down.
Strong skunky lures or quality gland lures and urine work very
well in these cold times. If you're in bobcat country try using
some visual attractors that are legal in your state. Personally,
I like to contain my lures or urine in a 35-mm film canister filled
with cotton balls. I position it by wiring it off near the trap.
These containers are usually black, which may add to the set's
eye appeal; but more importantly the color absorbs the sunlight's
heat, keeping odors more active.
After a catch is made, the trap will fire off the platform and
the animal will leave the immediate set area. So after a catch
is made remakes are usually a cinch. First, locate the platform,
check to see if it's in good enough shape to reuse. Sometimes
the captured animal will chew it up, so bring extras. Be sure
to bring additional nails/screws and tools for remaking sets.
In many cases, it's a simple matter of just cleaning the trap
up a bit with some snow or debris and resetting the trap on the
same platform. Be careful not to set too close to other dragged
sets as entanglement might occur with two caught animals.
Well, there you have it, another set trappers can attempt to use
to catch furbearing animals in the cold, snowy conditions. Try
it out and hope old Ma' Nature doesn't change things up on you
too bad. ### Mike Marchewka, 1235 Alexandra Blvd., Crystal
Lake, IL 60014
Editor's Note: I would like to welcome Mike's
story and thank him for his interest in the OSTA and the Buckeye
Trapper. Thanks for sharing your ideas with us in Ohio. While
we are able to use snares in Ohio, there are probably quite a
few places on your winter trapline where this set would work great.
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