Raccoon
Trapping for Beginners
Article from Sep
- Oct 2005 Buckeye Trapper
by Mike
Conrad
It is fairly simple to trap a raccoon. However, using selected
traps at specific locations, to ensure that the raccoon you caught
is waiting for you when you check your traps, is a little more
difficult.
There are many aspects to raccoon trapping. You need traps to
capture the animal, sets to use in capturing and holding a raccoon,
and other equipment needed for trapping and handling your catch.
This article will deal mainly with the trapping aspect.
Before we get started though, I would like to briefly mention
some basic equipment that you will need for any type of trapping;
14 gauge wire, wire cutting pliers, small axe or hatchet, bait,
lure, trapping basket or 5 gallon bucket, trap stakes, knee or
hip boots, etc. You will also need two of the most important pieces
of trapping equipment, time and dedication. Raccoon trapping requires
the time necessary to meet your catch goals and the dedication
to check your traps each and every day, regardless of anything
else.
As far as handling your furs, you can skin and stretch them yourself;
you can freeze them whole, or you can freeze the hides after you
have skinned them. If you need help handling your pelts you can
ask local trappers who should be willing to offer advice. You
can also visit a local fur dealer if one in nearby.
Another excellent option, to learn about handling pelts and about
trapping, is available by attending either the OSTA Fall Convention
(Held in Circleville this year.) or any of the OSTA Region Meets.
You can also learn a lot just by going to any of the Fur Auctions.
Look around and ask a few questions, you will be surprised how
much you can learn.
Now – let’s get started on the basics. Raccoons are
fairly easy to trap. They respond readily to baits and lures,
which can either be store bought (peanut butter and/or marshmallows,
etc.) or purchased commercially from lure manufacturers. They
can also be trapped, without bait, simply by setting a trap in
a raccoon trail or in an area where raccoons frequently visit.
Look for raccoon tracks in wet areas on trails or for their droppings
to indicate that they are using a specific trail. Areas where
raccoons frequently visit include any tile or small body of water
that empties into a pond, ditch or creek. They are found near
likely den sites such as mature woods, barns, abandoned buildings,
and ground hog holes. They are also found near food sources like
corn fields, bird feeders, fruit orchards, nut trees and along
any stream that contains small fish, crawdads and other aquatic
life.
There are many types of traps that can be used for trapping raccoons.
They include box traps, foothold traps, specialty traps, snares
and bodygripping traps. Snares and bodygripping traps have their
place on any trap line; however, they are a little more difficult
for beginners to use, and I will skip over their use in this article.
Probably the easiest trap to set and one of the best at holding
a raccoon is the box trap, especially for youngsters. While these
traps are bulky and expensive, they have their place on just about
any trap line, large or small. These traps last practically forever
with little or no maintenance and can be set anywhere raccoons
visit. You will have a better chance of making a catch if you
make sure that the box trap is set in such a way so that it will
not move when an animal steps on any part of the trap. Use bait
and lure that offers site as well as odor to attract your target
animal.
Box traps offer three distinct advantages over any other type
of trap. First, since the animal is restrained by being enclosed
inside the trap, they can be set anywhere there is room, regardless
of the vegetation or debris near your set. (More on this important
detail later.) Second, they can be used where the possibility
of capturing a pet or unwanted animal is likely. The use of box
traps will open up trapping areas where you normally would not
be able to trap. Landowners with pets will give trapping permission
much more readily if you tell them that you will be using box
traps. They also work well on concrete or asphalt, set next to
a trash dumpster; a location where other traps can not be set.
Third, they can be set by even the youngest trappers who are able
to carry them or have someone help them to carry them, with little
difficulty.
The advantages of using box traps far outweigh the disadvantages.
While their bulk and cost prohibit purchasing and using large
numbers of these traps, any trapper would be well served to have
at least a few available. The fact that they can be used indefinitely,
with little or no maintenance, makes their high purchase price
affordable over their many years of use.
There are many foothold traps available for trapping raccoons.
The types of traps that I would recommend for younger trappers
include the #1-1/2 coilspring, the #1 coilspring and the #11 double
longspring. With practice, most youths old enough to trap should
be able to set these traps without too much difficulty. Any of
these traps will work well with drowning sets. The #1 and #11
are better suited for dryland sets.
Foothold traps are relatively inexpensive and with proper care
will last for many years. The one disadvantage with using them
is that they must be set properly to prevent a raccoon from escaping.
A raccoon has tapered paws and is very strong, which makes it
easy for them to “power out” of a trap, when given
the chance. To prevent this, foothold traps must be set in such
a way that a caught raccoon can not reach any saplings thicker
than your little finger, or reach any debris; such as tree roots,
heavy trash or anything that is heavy and/or immovable. If a raccoon
can reach any of these objects it is fairly easy for them to grab
a hold of these object and pull themselves out of the trap. Attaching
your footholds to stakes, out of reach of these objects, is recommended.
While some trappers like to attach their traps to drags, there
are too many variables involved that limit their use to more experienced
trappers. If you encounter a location near your set where there
are saplings or debris, and it is near water, you can make a drowning
set.
Drowning sets work well wherever there is deep enough water, typically
18-24”, or more. Instead of staking your trap solid, it
is attached to a length of 14 gauge wire. The wire is fastened
to a stake driven into deep water or it is attached to a heavy
weight, such as a cement block or a feed sack filled with stones
and dirt. Run the wire up to your set and fasten your trap to
the wire using a drowning lock or a swivel. When attached to the
wire properly, the trap will slide easily into deep water, but
will bind on the wire and not slide back towards the bank. The
end of the wire is attached to a stake near the set. Any raccoon
that is caught will slide down the wire and quickly drown.
Finally, there are specialty traps, such as dog-proof traps, egg
traps, little grizz getters, etc. All of these traps work well,
but are expensive and are more difficult to set. Additionally,
some of these traps require special tools to be used to set them.
If you are old enough to be able to set these traps, and can afford
the extra costs, they do have a place on most trap lines.
Like box traps, they can be set where catching domestic animals
is a problem. They can also be used in light vegetation where
you can not make a drowning set but where there is too much debris
for regular foothold traps. A raccoon can not pull out of these
traps as easily. Another advantage for young trappers is that
a parent, older relative, or adult can set these traps for you
ahead of time. Then you can take them out and make your sets on
the trap line. After a catch you may need help remaking your set,
or you can just the trap home along with the raccoon.
Other items that help you hold onto your catch include the use
of center swiveling, adding extra swivels to your chains, and
properly adjusting pan tension on your traps. I did not mention
any specific sets as there are many good books and trapping magazines
that cover raccoon sets and the trap adjustments listed above.
I have provided some information on how to hold onto your catch
after it is made. For some trappers this is more difficult than
catching the raccoon itself.
By using box traps, drowning sets, foothold traps away from saplings
and debris, and some of the specialty traps that are available,
young trappers can catch and hold on to more raccoons, increasing
their catch dramatically. ### Mike Conrad, 1244 Abbe Road,
Sheffield, OH 44054.
Editors Note: Mike will be giving a Jr. Demo
on raccoon trapping at the Convention in Circleville. See the
Convention Schedule for more details.
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